New York: Day Seven - ShAolin, Hova and Sean P

What do we get from learning history? It’s a big question which I’m not really going to start to unpack here but it’s definitely been on my mind. For some people I’m sure they get a greater sense of their own identity by learning their history, which is why racists love to live in some idealised age of empire and colonialism, which exists mostly in their imaginations. For others, simply having a richer palette to draw from, helps them to understand the world around them more. I’m really not sure why I’m here trying to connect to the history of Hip-hop and New York city as a whole, though I’m sure it has a lot to do with how important Hip hop culture and music in general, has always been in my life. Maybe I’m just trying to paint my soul with more detail, or trying to understand what it is about the music that makes me tick. As I said, I’m not even going to start to unpack that here, but the question really starts to bother me as I wonder around the streets of Shaolin, or rather Staten Island for those unaffiliated to the Wu.

Before I get to the Staten Island Ferry, I pop into the National Museum of the American Indian (a name that feels weird to me being a Brit and only using the term Native American since I was at least a teenager) which is located in the incredibly grand Alexander Hamilton U.S. Custom House. The museum is free if you’re ever in town, and well worth a visit. This is where New York history really begins, even the city’s musical history as the people who occupied the land before it (and still do despite the efforts of settlers across the generations) have instruments such as cow horn trumpets, flutes, rattles and various drums on show here. There’s also a range of clothing and costumes, weapons, toys, pottery, woven baskets and every day practical items from across the various tribes of America, and throughout the many eras of their history. Everything is ornate, but there’s also some really great modern artwork, mostly from the 20th century. Currently there’s a retrospective of work from Shelley Nero, an artist from the matriarchal Mohawk tribe, whose work is often a powerful comment on the problems of the modern patriarchal society we live in. I also learned that Lacrosse is not simply a game they play in private schools for posh girls, but it was invented by Haudenosaunee and is very much grounded in tradition and spirituality.

Even for the every day tourist, the Staten Island ferry is a must as the skyline views from the bottom of Manhattan are spectacular. Plus you pass by the iconic Statue Of Liberty without having to pay for the official (or unofficial) tour boats (right hand side of the boat for best views and get there early). I’m pretty sure this is why most people were on the Staten Island Ferry, the guide books don’t have much to say about the island itself, aside from the best Sri Lankan food in New York. I headed too Stapleton first, which is part of little Sri Lanka but I’d not long eaten and was mostly there to see the Wu Tang Clan mural painted opposite the library. That would have been a worthy destination for a Wu Tang pilgrimage but I decided to head for Park Hill the area where the group emerged from in the early 90s, which is now officially known as Wu Tang District.

I probably headed there for the same reason that most people want to see the Statue of Liberty. Not just because it’s an impressive spectacle, but because it’s been a part of our lives in songs and TV and movies for so long. Like many places in New York, even if we’ve never lived there it’s part of our own history in some way. But the issue with Hip-hop is, the culture grew from struggle and a lot of the neighbourhoods are still struggling, so whilst it’s great to walk the streets that have been part of your cultural experience for so long, unless your being invited in by the people there, unless your specifically there to meet people and make connections, you have to ask yourself at which point of the economic scale does your trip turn from visiting to tourism to voyeurism? Instead of entertaining that conversation with myself so early in the day I decided to head back over to Brooklyn for the Jay Z Exhibition at the Central Library.

Now a lot of people dislike Jay Z and believe me I get it. There was a point in the noughties where I openly refused to play his music on my radio show. This led to a backlash from the Associated Minds Hip hop show on the same station and to be fair, rightfully so. On putting together my Noughties New York Hip hop playlist, I realised nobody from the city had as many big tunes as him that decade, not even Nas (though that's by a whisker). For me at the time though he signified everything I was increasingly against in Hip hop, commercialism and materialism especially. But whether you view him as gentrification or regeneration, exploitation or empowerment (I very much lean towards the latter of both now), it’s impossible not to be in awe of his achievements, and because I didn't give him the proper respect at the time, his rapping also, has always been phenomenal.

Both of these facts are made clearer on the approach to Brooklyn Library where the Book Of Hova exhibition is being held. The huge municipal building is wrapped in Jay Z lyrics which makes for an impactful entrance. Inside there are a number of large scale installations, from his album covers to a recreation of the the art installment from his The Blueprint 3 album cover. There’s even a recreation of his whole recording studio, as well as clothing, portraits, photos, tons of magazine covers and awards, documentaries and original recordings on high quality cassette formats, as well as a whole lot more.

Curated in collaboration with Roc Nation, it's unclear how much input Jay Z had in this exhibition, but there is no doubt that he knows how to make an impact, and this is a tribute which gives little room to deny his iconic status. Book Of Hova is about more than simple grandstanding mind you. Its about inspiring people to be the most powerful, effective and honest version of themselves, to not let negativity hold them down or let any barriers in their way stop their personal progression. Its a strong and noble message, and I can't help but walk away feeling impresses and inspired.

I was flagging hard by the time I got out of the exhibition, its been a long old week already and I was thinking of heading to the apartment for a nap. However then I ran into Steve O’ Brien, a 34 year old carpet fitter and Hip hop head from the north of England. We'd met briefly at Crotona Park on Friday, and he was heading to SOBs (not actually his club) in Greenwich Village for a Sean Price memorial night, organised by P's widow Bernadette and Duck Down Records. I had to join him.


We went via a Roti spot in Bedford Stuyvesant. I had been devastated that the legendary Calypso store Charlie's Records was closed so this was my conciliatory taste of Trini culture whilst here. They gave me a triple helping of Chicken Curry Roti and Doubles so I had to leave the rest in a locker near the club.

We arrived at early doors so I pretty much got to see everyone. The place was packed by the end with only the most dedicated underground heads there to see an impressive line up of Sean P collaborators, who not only make Hip hop music, but live for the culture and it shows. There was: PF Cuttin' juggling some local noughties hip hop bangers on the decks; Queens rapper Superbad Solace; Apollo Ali from New Jersey; Innocent? aka INNO; Poison Pen & Swave Sevah, who also had Immortal Technique on stage, though sadly he never joined them for ‘Stronghold Grip’; there was Termanology from Massachusetts, who played some tracks from his new album with Paul Wall; Eddie Kaine who I think had Frankie Smaccz with him; Royal Flush who brought out both Nature and Capone of CNN; Illa Ghee; Ruste Juxx who had two artists with him but I never caught their names. I found out just now that it was Tech from Boot Camp Clik and a dope up and coming rapper called Rayza, but I’ll tell you more about him tomorrow; then two of my favourite Rappers hit the stage, first Grafh and then Method Man. You could really feel how much love there was for P in the room, especially amongst the artists; finally of course the night wouldn't have been complete without his crew, Boot Camp Clik. I'd already missed them at Rock The Bells so I was excited, but turns out I only got to really see Rock (the other half of Helta Skeltah) before the time ran out on my luggage locker and I had to go. Thankfully I did just catch Bernadette joining Rock to fill in her late husband's lyrics, which was a really beautiful moment (she can really spit).

Just another mind blowing day in the land of Hip hop. Plenty more still in store, catch you back here again tomorrow.